BAD WEATHER PHOTOGRAPHY by Arik Gorban
Before we go on a trip or start a shooting session in bad weather conditions we should try to answer the following:
- What exactly are the weather conditions and what is the forecast?
- Why are they bad?
- What are the effects of the prevailing conditions?
- What are the advantages?
- What are the problems and how do I overcome them?
- What type of photographic situations should I avoid?
- What precautions (photographer and equipment care) are required?
The Bad Weather Conditions discussed here are:
- Overcast Days
- Rain
- Snow
- Fog and Mist
- Haze
- Wind
- Cold Days
Overcast Days
- Diffused light; no harsh shadows, great for portraits of people and wildlife, best for flower photography. Also adds mood to pastoral landscapes
- Flat light reduces unwanted facial features
- When shooting white water (waterfalls or cascades) the flat light reduces contrast and allows for details in the water and in the darker background
- Gray sky produces clear background, which can be used for sandwiches with other images
- Very dark sky or nice cloud formations produce very attractive backgrounds
- A flash may be used to compensate for some of the lost details
- To avoid washed-out background; shoot low, fill the background without the sky
- Use a polarizer filter to enhance cloud formations and darken the sky
- Exposure considerations; use faster lenses and/or film
Rain
- Rain has a strong softening effect on the light
- Dark tree trunks produce beautiful lines in the picture
- Rain hides far backgrounds
- Rain adds interest to mundane subjects (look different)
- Look for special effects:
- shoot through the window/windshield
- reflections from puddles and roads
- water droplets on flowers, cars, windows...
- Look for rainbows
- Try night photography in the rain
- After the rain: be ready for different conditions:
clearing, dark clouds, sky stays gray
- After the rain colors become very saturated
- Use an umbrella for protection
- Cover the camera and lens with a plastic wrap
Snow
- Snow adds texture to the picture
- It covers the ground and eliminates distracting details
- Snow creates very moody shots
- If the snow is light- the effect of depth increases; if the snow is dense- the picture will appear almost two dimensional and colorless
- Carry an umbrella for protection
- Cover the camera and lens with a plastic wrap
- Exposure compensation will be required if bright snow dominates the scene
Fog and Mist
- Fog blocks distracting backgrounds
- Backlighted subjects appear in very warm colors
- They create moody landscapes
- Fog and mist have a strong softening effect
- They produce interesting low sun pictures
- Look for lines, shapes, forms and patterns
- Subject details are not going to stand out.
- Concentrate on the large compositional elements in the picture
Haze
- Haze gives dimension to the picture
- It adds warm colors to landscapes at sunrise and sunset
- Haze acts as a huge light box; it diffuses the light
- It produces warm backlighted subjects
- Haze reduces color saturation (very soft colors)
- Use a UV or Haze filter
- Look for lines, shapes, forms and patterns. Subject details are not going to stand out. Concentrate on the large compositional elements of the picture
- Shoot close; don't attempt to shoot far landscapes for color or detail
Windy Days
- Show the effects of the strong wind
- Try multiple exposures that show movement of flowers, leaves and small branches, but keep stationary objects sharp
- Use fast shutter speeds to freeze movements caused by the wind
- Protect your small subjects from the wind (flowers, etc.)
- Use a heavy and sturdy tripod
Cold Days
- Less people - more wildlife
- Cold days are often very clear days
- Photograph frost patterns on windows, plants, and objects
- Look for ice patterns
- Keep batteries and the photographer warm. Use NiMH, rewind manually, defrost film, wait for foggy lenses to clear
- Pad the legs of your tripod
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